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A new exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, Death Becomes Her: A Century of Mourning Attire explores this rigidly codified fashion phenomenon and the connections between grief and glamour through a collection of bereavement gowns made in the United States and the United Kingdom from 1815 to 1915

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Caricatures and criticism of dress reform, however, reveal a clear understanding of the threat “Bloomerism” posed to existing gender roles

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